Venice Diary, II

In which I go to the Biennale and crash Peter Weller‘s 60th birthday party

Although the heat yesterday rivaled anything you could find standing on top of the Equator, Laura and I ran at full tilt from Rialto to the gardens where the Biennale is held.  There, her friend Ricardo (who worked in the French pavillion) was waiting to let us in for free but we has to get there before 2, when his shift was over. 

We arrived on time, were let in, and went straight to the Sophie Calle exhibit at the pavillon francese, "Prenez soin de vous." In case you haven’t heard about it, here’s the lowdown: Calle, a French artist, photographer and provocateur, who often uses her life a a springboard to her art, had asked 100 well-known women artists, writers, and other professionals to help her make sense of a break-up letter she had received from her lover, X.

Written in very flowery French, the letter alternates between cowardly– something along the lines of "I wanted to tell you this in person but couldn’t so here is is, au moins serait-il écrit"– and recriminatory ("you told me you didn’t want to be ‘number 4′… but you continued to see B and R").  The women who respond range from sexologist Catherine Solano–who writes her interpretation on a prescription pad– to the singer Feist, to Arielle Dombasle, a Kabuki doll, an Italian actress chopping onions, a student from the Ecole Normale Supérieure’s commentaire de texte, and oh… too many to recount here.    Some photos are here.

Calle had another work on display in the Italian pavillion, a very sad tribute to her mother, who died in 2006, just as Calle learned she had been chosen to present at the Biennale.

Calle is no stranger to Venice: for her 1979 work Suite Vénitienne she followed a man she met at a party in Paris to Venice, where she continued to follow him around, surreptitiously taking pictures of him. 

Later that night, not wanting to impose on Laura again, I struck out on my own, and found a promising pizzera called Il refolo, not far from Laura’s apartment. They pulled out a table just for me– I was the only person dining solo– and I pulled out my copy of The Wings of the Dove to keep me company.  I noticed a large party seated to my left, full of people speaking English and Italian, and smiled, feeling less lonely by proximity. 

Then, a deeply tanned man in a brightly colored jacket with blue plastic framed glasses pulled up in a gondola, which met with everyone’s applause.  The waitstaff stopped to gape. I looked up from my book.  And I would not have recognized the man who emerged had I not been knee-deep in season five of "24." It was Peter Weller, who apparently is doing his PhD in art history at Syracuse, and even teaches there.  "You only turn 60 once!" he joked to everyone, as he disembarked and took his seat at the head of the table.  Peter, as a fellow grad student, former Syracusian (one year, folks, then I bolted), lover of Venice and diner at Il Refolo, happy birthday! Thanks for giving me something to blog about.

Venice Diary, I

In which I arrive in Venice, drag around a suitcase for three hours, meet charming Italian academics and have a drink with (ok, near) Toni Negri at the Mercato di Rialto

I arrived in Venice Saturday afternoon on the 9:40 from Orly, and it was noon by the time the bus from the airport dropped us at Piazzale Rome.  After taking the vaporetto to San Stae, I had a few hours to kill waiting for Laura, the woman who is housing me in her apartment, to arrive in Venice from Turin, where she is tending to her sick father, so I walked around Santa Croce for awhile, first looking for a place to have lunch, then looking for a place to have coffee, then looking for a place, just a place, where it wasn’t too hot and I could sit and wait for Laura.  Just one problem presented itself: my suitcase was heavy, there were many bridges to cross, and a limited number of gallant Italians strategically located to help me (this happened precisely twice).  I resolved the problem in what I am assured is true Venetian style: rather than exert the energy of  lifting the bag up and down the steps, I dragged it up and dragged it down.  This might have saved energy but was extremely violent: every time it descended a new step the shock of the impact reverberated through my body.  The heat was unbearable. The crowd of tourists was thick. I finally made my way back to the vaporetto stop at San Stae, sat down on the steps of Sant’Eustacio, and waited for four o’clock, the breeze from the Grand Canal drying my sweat and cooling down my system.

Laura took me out with a few friends Saturday night and I was roughly brought up against the limitations of my Italian.  I haven’t felt this way since 1999, when I stayed with a family in Besançon for a week, the bulk of which I spent smiling and nodding, trying to hide my frustration at not being able to express myself or understand them.  Well, here I am again, trying to squeeze my personality into a vocabulary of 50 words and a non-existent capacity to conjugate verbs.  But Stefania and her boyfriend Massimo were lovely, and did their best to include me in the conversation in a mélange of English, French, and Italian, and after a drink on the quay at Rialto (we saw Toni Negri at Bancogiro!) we made our way over to a bacaro near SS Giovanni e Paolo.

N arrives next Saturday.   The sun is shining and the air is gentle.  And, I found a spot in Laura’s apartment where sometimes there is Wifi.  So all in all, I can say without hesitation, though with some awkwardness, that tutti va bene.

Well there was music alright

Last night’s fête de la musique was the first one in a long line of fêtes when I didn’t feel especially fêstive.  By 6 pm the music from the rue Mouffetard coming into the apartment was unbearable; I was trying to grade papers and could barely hear myself think.  Worse, there was nothing in the house for dinner, and we would have to brave the crowds and find a place to eat nearby.

When N came home, we went for dinner at "our" Italian resto around the corner.  The waiter, whose name I wish I knew, but who knows us both well, informed us that they weren’t serving from the menu that night, but instead were doing antipasti and bruschetta.  He brought us a pitcher of wine, some marinated peppers, eggplant, artichoke, and sun-dried tomatoes along with a hunk of parmesan and some delicate folds of coppa and prosciutto.  All of this was well appreciated, as I leave for Venice tomorrow morning, and so it was a celebratory send-off from our friends at Nonna Inès.

We were seated by the open window, and there was a group set up outside playing Radiohead and David Bowie so loudly N and I could barely hear each other, and we resorted to singing along instead of conversation, and somewhere between the singing along and the pichet de vin, I began to lighten up.  There was something so earnest about it all– there were kids everywhere with orange- and green-streaked hair squirting each other with silly string, and
their corresponding adults wagged their behinds back and forth in time to the music.   Fete de la Musique  has seemed to me, in recent  years, to be over-hyped, by the city and by Paris bloggers alike, and I had begun to see it as just another version of New Year’s Eve, where no matter where you go you are sure other people are having a better time somewhere else.  But last night on the rue de l’Arbalète, everyone was having fun right where they were.

When we finished eating, we went outside to join the crowd. N hoisted me up onto his back so I could see the band with their funny wigs, who performed "Oh What a Night" in French.  The epitome of the cheesy Bar Mitzvah song, and I actually sang along! It must have been the wine.  My mom called on my cell and I think was surprised to hear the merriment and –frankly– noise– in the background, so used is she to catching me in quiet moments these days.  While we were talking, the crowd began performing some mass ritual to which they all knew the words and the dance steps– clearly this was the French "Macarena."  I hung up with my mother and N and I giggled to each other, watching them dance. And then at precisely the right moment, he said "Do you want to go home?" And indeed I did. I felt lighter than I had in years. Fete de la Musique was officially back on my "fun" list.

Around midnight we were falling asleep when BOOM BOOM BOOM boom ditty boom boom boom.  Some sort of drum-based marching band had struck up a march somewhere near the apartment.   And they didn’t stop! The jaunty march turned into a declaration of war! It was midnight on a thursday night! How dare they! I wanted to go to the window and hurl down obscenities, but didn’t want to wake N, who was already off in the bras de Morphe.   I popped in some earplugs but could still hear their war song had turned into a dirge.  I fell asleep eventually– but I fell asleep angry.  Fête de la Musique? back on my "not fun" list. 

Continue reading

On books as sweaters (part 3 of 3)

read part one here; read part two here.

In the weeks since the book section of the Atlanta Journal-Constitution was closed down, many good articles have been written to analyze the state of literary criticism in the US (notably here), and after a brief survey of the litblogs, the furor seems to have died down. And after all that hemming and hawing, the general consensus seems to be an industry-wide shrug.  The book reviewers have gone back to work, if nervously.

As for my own contributions on this blog (here and here), I’ve received some thought-provoking responses to these posts, both in the comments box and privately, and I have not been surprised to find many reiterated the consoling mantra of our time: "at least people are reading." And  I have to say, with all due respect for those who have uttered it here or elsewhere,

No, this is not good enough.

Nardac had the goodness to recommend an excellent article here and her own response here.  Calling it illiteracy, as Silverblatt does, is perhaps alarmist, but certainly one underlying problem seems to be that people don’t know how to read, really read—reading is hard, they complain. It’s boring.

In my opinion, it isn’t sufficient for people to only read easy books that reinforce their worldview,  because only reading someone like Sophie Kinsella or Meg Cabot does nothing to elevate the general discourse.  If everyone is just reading people who talk exactly like they do, people who have exactly the same ideas as they do, the culture will never move forward.  They will remain mired in mediocrity.  Don’t get me wrong; Kinsella and Cabot are lively and entertaining writers, but I’m sure they would be the first to agree that their readers should only expect momentary diversion.

But more generally, it’s a numbers game, argues Lindsay Waters, executive editor of humanities at Harvard University Press. “There is a causal connection between the corporatist demand for increased productivity,” Waters writes here, “and the draining from all publications of any significance other than as a number. […]When books cease being complex media and become objects to quantify, then it follows that all the media that the humanities study lose value.”

This reminds me of the fundamental argument of The Dialectic of Enlightenment.  Horkheimer and Adorno write, “The countless agencies of mass production and its culture impress standardized behavior on the individual as the only natural, decent, and rational one. […] Everything which is different, from the idea to criminality, is exposed to the force of the collective, which keeps watch from the classroom to the trade union” (22).  Reading unchallenging books keeps people on the same track, conforming and trying to keep up with what everyone else is doing.  In a worst case scenario, such as the one Horkheimer and Adorno had just survived (Dialectic was first published in 1944), this complacency enables fascism and totalitarianism.  But in our present, less dramatic context, it results in widespread and willful ignorance, which, while less overtly dangerous, is no less insidious.  Adorno was notoriously opposed to mass forms of entertainment, like jazz, and cinema, and he was certainly wrong on those counts.  And I am certainly glad that people do buy books, and read them, no matter how insipid, because they are the core of he publishing industry, that enables more challenging work to be published. 

The problem is that, from early on, as Silverblatt points out, we are not encouraged to do better, to do more.  We simply don’t have any literary ideal on which to model ourselves. Susan Sontag writes that when she was growing up in suburban Arizona and southern California, she turned to reading to escape from “the prison of national vanity, of philistinism, of compulsory philistinism, of inane schooling, of imperfect destinies and bad luck” (At the Same Time, p. xvi).

This assessment has the ring of hindsight to it; it’s unlikely that she could have formulated such a critique from within the provincial setting. Sontag needed to escape it, to get to other thinking people, to become Sontag. And isn’t that ironic? To think that her family, my family, came to America, Jews straight from the shtetl, to build a better life for themselves, and they did it: we, their descendants grew up in such comfort with such essential quality of life that it seems we ought to be the culmination of their hopes for us.  And yet. Something was left out, in the struggle for survival, and the fight to give their children and grandchildren a better life, something got lost. 

The phrase “charmed existence” was coined to describe the childhood of the average suburbanite, i.e., me; all my basic needs were met and most non-basic needs as well.  So it was all the more difficult to put my finger on what was wrong, all those years.  I looked around my middle-class Long Island town and I thought I was just odd.  I didn’t realize I belonged to an entire tribe of people, people who read furiously and deeply, passionate about ideas and their expression. And, like Sontag, I can look back now, and see that it is because there were no models.  Despite the fact that my parents are both highly literate, intelligent people who took me to the ballet, the theatre, to concerts and museums, the zone outside my parents’ jurisdiction was deadening to original thought.  In my high school, as I’m sure is true in every other mediocre high school across the country, you were commended for playing by the rules, reading what you were told to; anyone thinking (or reading) outside the box was left outside the box. We read a little Shakespeare, and that was interesting, and otherwise—Holden Caulfield, The Scarlet Letter, Arthur Miller, Ibsen.  Good stuff but it was like receiving echoes from outer space:  I had no idea what it was all connected to or where it was coming from.  I had never heard of Woolf except through the Edward Albee play, much less Beauvoir, Proust, Pynchon, Nabokov, all the greats of the 20th century. Forget about Adorno.  Benjamin who? Hannah who? I didn’t find out until I went to Barnard: and that was when I first began to exist.

Nadine Gordimer describes a similar coming of age, in a 1983 interview with The Paris Review:

In the town where I lived, there was no mental food of this
kind at all. I’m often amazed to think how they live, those peo-
ple, and what an oppressed life it must be, because human beings
mustlive in the world of ideas. This dimension in the human psy-
che is very important. It was there, but they didn’t know how
to express it. Conversation consisted of trivialities. For women,
household matters, problems with children. The men would talk
about golf or business or horse racing or whatever their practical
interests were. Nobody ever talked about, or even around, the
big things: life and death. The whole existential aspect of life was
never discussed. I, of course, approached it through books.
Thought about it on my own. It was as secret as it would have
been to discuss my parents’ sex life. It was something so private,
because I felt that there was nobody with whom I could talk
about these things, just nobody. But then, of course, when I was
moving around at university, my life changed.

 

I was lucky enough to have the courage to stick it out, to deal with being different, and to make it to Barnard. To this day, I chafe when people tell me to take it easy, to take things less seriously.  Elias Canetti once said, “Imagine telling Shakespeare to relax.” Just because we’re not Shakespeare, or Sontag or Canetti, doesn’t mean we should relax, tune out, follow the crowd.  We should take things more seriously than we do.  We should take ideas more seriously.  We should dare to listen before formulating our opinions.  We should take time to consider our thoughts on a given subject, instead of running with whatever thought is at the top of our minds.  We should value less the attempt for its own sake, and start valuing excellence.  We should drop the self-deprecating attitude and try taking ourselves seriously again.  If we come up short of our own or other peoples’ expectations, so be it. 

But that would mean we would no longer be living out our lives through a protective veil. 

Nardac has more faith in humanity than I do, and so I’ll end this with her idea: “A human being’s best qualities, the things which I believe are the fundamental principles to all intellectual life, are curiosity and imagination. They both require active cultivation and effort but its rewards are a reprieve from the atrophying effects of apathy and smug ignorance.”

But they need permission to exercise their curiosity, which will otherwise flag and grow dull.  And they need permission not from some Parisian blogger, but from the media, from their schools, from their family and friends.   

princesses

Reading the Sunday morning New York Times Books Review is usually en exercise in frustration, but this morning it contains a particularly irritating review of Tina Brown’s new book about Princess Diana. That a Barnard professor wrote this seems to me to be the comble of shame:

Sometimes against their better judgment, women the world over were entranced by the prospect of untold leisure, unequaled glamour and redemptive metamorphosis that this particular myth promised. Ladies, let’s be honest: who really among us hasn’t dreamed of becoming a princess?

From Caroline Weber, I expected better. Weber has excelled recently at bridging academic analysis and mainstream interest, but she drops the ball in this piece. I know introductions are hard, but come on.

Weber, who now specializes in women who are known for their love affair with fashion and  vexed relationship to the media is a perfect choice to review a book about Diana by Tina Brown.  And the interpretations Brown makes of Diana’s early years sound very similar to Weber’s interpretations of Marie Antoinette’s; BRown recounts that Diana’s awkward father’s only means of expressing love for his children was to take home movies and photographs of them; Diana’s brother Charles said that Diana would ham it up for the cameras.  Brown comments, "Honing her star power became, Brown observes, the bereft little girl’s ‘own way of surviving.’"

What’s interesting to me in all this is the way that some of the more clichéd figures of feminist criticism have leaked their way into the mainstream press, in the guise of the above passage, yet the introduction invites (women) readers to admit that in spite of all our show, our feminist performances, underneath, we all just want to be princesses.   Inside every powerful woman, Weber implies, is a little girl who wants to be wear pretty clothes and be taken care of.  Then, of course, in Brown’s account, the little girl has to suffer for her "naive belief in a tabloid fiction."

I find it ironic that within the space of one article we (women) are encouraged to admit that we all secretly want to be princesses and then we are treated to a fable of what happens to princesses who buy into the whole thing.  Doesn’t seem to leave us much of a choice, does it? We long for something we can’t have and when we have it it destroys us, is that how it goes?

The distance from the 5th arrondissement to the 19th

…can be measured in several ways.  In terms of distance, in terms of journey time, and in terms of energy.

It is 3:40 in the afternoon and, having only just finished the activities I had to take care of today, I begin to contemplate heading to the blogger picnic extravaganza.  Good times are to be had there, that’s for sure; friends I haven’t met yet await, as well as friends I have; there is the possibility of much merriment and alcohol to be had. 

And yet.

I spent eight hours at a conference room table yesterday listening to French Woolfians argue their cases, which was followed by two hours in a sweltering basement theatre seeing a friend perform in a French adaptation of "The Full Monty."  Thursday night was similarly spent in a sweltering theatre watching another friend act in a French version of "Camelot." This morning I spent three hours around a conference table listening to French academics discuss Adorno and Vattimo.  My apartment is three-quarters of the way packed, and I am moving tomorrow morning at 9:30 am.  And I have several projects pending that include a paper on Claude Cahun and her Symbolist/Decadent influences, finishing a draft of my novel, reading several books; interviewing the author of one and writing an essay about the others. 

All this would be feasible, nothing out of the ordinary, except factor in meetings and grading papers and exams to proctor and all this to accomplish before I leave for Venice on the 23rd, and in short, the distance between the rue Mouffetard and the Buttes-Chaumont, when measured in terms of energy expended, is too great to bridge this afternoon. 

And so I wish all the Paris bloggers a very happy and carefree afternoon, and present my excuses for not joining you.  It’s not that I’m too busy or too lazy to attend. It’s that my head will explode if I do.

Bearing fruit

Well, finally, after a few weeks’ turnaround, my first blog post for the Huffington Post is up here.  It goes something like this…

An American in Paris, no matter how besotted with the food, the wine,
and the breathtaking beauty of the place, will invariably, after
several weeks of apartment hunting, be tempted to turn right around and
head back to America.

I’ll let you read the rest.

I expect to be roundly sanctioned by certain people who get very upset when an expatriate American says the least critical thing about the way things are done in France, but I don’t care: we are perfectly entitled to our comparative assessments.    I love many things about France,which is why I’ve chosen to make my life here, but there are certain aspects of life here– particularly in Paris– that are grating, insulting, and pointless, and they are worth pointing out.